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Archive for November, 2011

I don’t understand why our nation insists on refering to the day after Thanksgiving as “Black Friday.” We’re so missing the point!

After a Thursday spent feasting on juicy roasted turkeys and platter upon dish of autumnal vegetable trimmings, there are bound to be leftovers. Lots of them. Instead of focusing next on all of the retail deals to be had (talk about indigestion), I’m here to make a plug for renaming the day and for focusing on its real meaning: food. Friday, with all of it’s carefully packaged leftovers -containers of silky creamed spinach, spoonfuls of herbed stuffing, slices of custardy pumpking pie, and hunks of  turkey just waiting to be made into the most delectable sandwich ever – should clearly be called “Leftover Friday.”

To help start the renaming movement , this short but sweet (and savory) blog post includes my favorite recipe for apple pear chutney which is perfect for “Leftover Friday.” We use it to dress up our turkey sandwiches which I think really makes them stand out from the crowd. But it’s also a refreshing garnish for Indian food and a tasty accompanyment to cheese and crackers (everything from cheddar to goat to brie). So move over cranberry sauce, make way for chutney and for a Friday that has everything to do with food, as it should.

Grilled Turkey and Swiss Sandwiches with Apple, Pear and Ginger Chutney

If you’ve never tasted or made chutney, don’t be put off. It’s just a condiment, like cranberry sauce or relish, that typically contains fruit, vinegar and sugar (vinegar to sugar in a 1:1 ratio). When people hear the word “chutney” the first thing that comes to mind might be mango chutney. It’s certainly the most “popular” variation and is often marketed on supermarket shelves. But many fruits work well and in Vermont apples and pears are abundant which certainly explains why I gravitate towards this combination. This recipe is easy peasy – just chop up your ginger and dice your apples and pears and you’re almost there. This “one-pot” recipe comes from Laura Washburn’s delightful little gem , Cooking with Apples and Pears. I’ve omitted the hot pepper flakes she calls for as I know that wouldn’t be popular chez moi.

Apple, Pear and Ginger Chutney

3 eating apples such as Golden Delicious, peeled, cored and diced

2 large ripe pears, peeled, cored and diced

1 large white onion, finely chopped

1 1/2 cups cider vinegar

1 1/2 cups light brown sugar

3/4 cups golden raisins or raisins

5oz piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

Makes 4 to 5 cups

In a large, non-reactive saucepan, combine the apples, pears, onion, vinegar, sugar, golden raisins, ginger, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 30-40 minutes.

Transfer the chutney to a spotlessly clean and dry sealable, airtight container. It will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Grilled Turkey and Swiss Sandwiches with Apple, Pear and Ginger Chutney

Serves 4

8 slices sourdough bread or wheat bread

8 ounces (leftover!!) turkey

6 ounces Swiss cheese, thinly sliced

4-8 tablespoons Apple, Pear, and Ginger Chutney (according to taste)

1/4 small red onion, sliced paper thin (optional)

Olive oil or butter for brushing the bread

Arrange four slices of bread  on a work surface and spread each with 1 tablespoon of chutney (or more for enthusiastic chutney lovers). Top with turkey, onions (optional) and Swiss. Top with the remaining slices of bread. Brush the outside of each sandwich lightly with the oil or butter.

Heat a heavy nonstick skillet or sandwich press over medium high heat and add the sandwiches, working in batches, if needed. Lower the heat to medium-low, browning the sandwiches slowly, until lightly crisped on the outside and the cheese begins to melt (I love this part!). Turn over and repeat on the second side.

Serve each sandwich cut into halves or quarters.

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This post is a “shout out” across the web to Alexandra of the blog Alexandra’s Kitchen to thank her for sharing such a fantastic recipe. I ran across it while searching for guidance on making a tart with the jewel-colored beets I’d just hunted and gathered at the (ongoing, through the winter!) Norwich Farmer’s Market. Who says you can’t get good local produce in Vermont once the weather turns colder?

Anyway, even if you can’t find beets quite as sunset orange or deep pinky red as those from Your Farm in Fairlee, Vermont you shouldn’t be deterred from baking this savory show stopper. Go out and forage for some of your own local beets right now, they’re everywhere. This tart fits right in at an elegant autumnal brunch or on a Thanksgiving table, especially if you’re looking to cook some less meat-centered dishes this holiday season. And it just looks so darn pretty. Amber-flecked hunks of goat cheese and heat-kissed walnuts speak to the somewhat muted season outdoors while the beets add a surprising, colorful sense of cheer to plates inside. A little parsley sprinkled on top makes it very artistic and appetizing.

And don’t forget to make your own crust! It’s my annual plea to those of you who might be tempted to go out and buy something factory made. Please, please consider covering your fingers with a little soft, powdery flour and some cool, squishy butter. It’s really fun and a zillion times tastier than something you’ll find in a store. A little practice at making your own crust and you’ll soon feel like you should be opening your own bakery. And the first thing on the menu would be these tarts.

Beet, Walnut and Goat Cheese Tart

The recipe I’m sharing with you from Alexandra’s Kitchen suggests using buttermilk instead of cream. I tried it and highly recommend it – this is a fantastic alternative as it cuts calories dramatically without affecting flavor. Some of you might stop reading right here thinking, “Oh, I don’t have any buttermilk in the fridge” or “I’m not going to go out and buy  a quart of buttermilk if I only need a cup for a recipe.” But I’m here to tell you that you already have buttermilk on hand! You can make your own in five minutes with ingredients you have in your kitchen by taking one cup of milk (whole milk works best but I have used 2%) and adding either a tablespoon of vinegar (I use apple cider vinegar) or a tablespoon of lemon juice  to it. Voila! After five minutes, you’ll notice the milk has thickened. That means it’s ready to use in your recipe.

So, to recap: 1 cup milk + 1 TBS vinegar or lemon juice + 5 minutes = Buttermilk!

Oh, and the recipe below calls for roasting the beets. I got lazy and just boiled mine until they were soft, peeled of the skin and cut them into bite-sized cubes. The rest of what you read, from here on out, is from Alexandra’s Kitchen.

Beet, Goat Cheese and Walnut Tart (from Alexandra’s Kitchen)

Source: Gordon Hamersley via Cookstr
Note: Below is a simplified version of the recipe. Find the original here.
Serves 4 to 6

1 recipe tart dough, shaped and blind baked
Yield: 12 ounces, enough for one 10-inch tart or 6 individual tarts

1½ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and well chilled
4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

1. In a mixing bowl, combine the flour and the salt. Quickly cut the butter into the flour, using a pastry blender or the back of a fork, until the butter pieces are the size of large peas. (Alternatively, cut the butter into the flour by pulsing it 8 to 10 times in a food processor, being careful not to overheat and overmix the butter.)

2. Add the ice water. Using just your fingertips and working quickly, combine the flour mixture and the water. Work just until the water is absorbed. The dough will be ragged but should hold together when you squeeze it. If it seems dry, sprinkle on a few more drops of water. (I had to add a few more tablespoons of water.)

3. Gather the dough up into a ball — it’s fine if the dough does not come together completely at this time. Wrap the dough well in plastic wrap, flatten it a bit, and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least a half hour before rolling. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. You can also freeze the dough, well wrapped; allow it to defrost for a day in the refrigerator before using it.

4. Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Roll the dough into a large circle — large enough to overlap whatever sized tart pan you are using. Press the dough into the corners and into the sides of the tart pan. Trim off any excess dough. Line the tart with plastic wrap and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Fold plastic up and over to expose the crust. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove from oven. Remove beans from tart.

Meanwhile Prepare the Tart.
Note: This recipe has been slightly modified from the original, which can be found here.

2 to 3 small beets (Note: Since you are roasting beets, you may as well roast a few more. When assembling the tart, I used about 2 heaping cups of diced beets)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter or olive oil
medium onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons dry white wine (or Sherry or Madeira — whatever you have on hand.)
1 recipe tart dough (above)
large eggs
¾ cup heavy cream (I used buttermilk)
4 ounces fresh goat cheese (I used less. Add according to taste/preference.)
1 cup chopped walnuts (I used less. Add according to taste/preference.)
1 tablespoon walnut oil (Optional — I did not use.)
About 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Wash the beets. Place the beets in a small ovenproof pan (like a brownie pan or a pie plate.) Add water to reach 1/8-inch up the sides. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Bake until the beets are tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 45 minutes.

2. Allow the beets to cool. (Or not). Rub the skins off of the beets with your fingers, then dice the beets into small cubes. (Be careful, as beet juice can stain counters, towels, and even your hands; you may want to wear gloves for this step.)

3. Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, season with a little salt, and cook, stirring every few minutes, until the onion is just tender, about 7 minutes. Add the alcohol and cook for another minute, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. (Note: I caramelized my onions a bit more — cooked them slowly for about 25 minutes.)

4. Heat the oven to 350°F. Add the beets and onions to the blind-baked tart shell. (Note: I added the walnuts at this step as well, but Hamersley adds them after the tart has already baked for 20 minutes. Your call.)

5. Whisk together the eggs and cream (or buttermilk), season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and carefully pour over the beets and onion, letting the mixture seep evenly into the beets. Dot the goat cheese all over the top of the tart. Put the tart on a baking sheet and bake it for 20 minutes. Sprinkle the chopped walnuts on top of the tart and drizzle the walnut oil over it, if using. Return the tart to the oven and bake until just set, an additional 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle the tart with the chopped parsley and let it rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.

Final Notes: If you can roast the beets ahead of time and prepare the tart shell (or make the tart dough) in advance, this tart can be assembled in no time.

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