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Archive for May, 2010

 

Oh so French

 

When a recipe uses the word “French” in its title, I think it tends to make people a little nervous. Suddenly, it has an elusive, exclusive air and speaks with the hint of an accent. “Will it be too fancy, too hard to make?” wonder would-be cooks.

So trust me when I say that this recipe for “French” potato salad is down-to-earth, down-home-Vermont and couldn’t be simpler. It may be “French,” it may even call for capers and shallots, but I promise it’s not going to come up and ask you to conjugate the verb être or quiz you on Parisian restaurant recommendations.

In fact, it’s so at ease in America that I brought it to a family reunion last weekend at my sister and brother-in-law’s farm near the Otter Creek over on the western side of the state. There  were twenty Americans gathered together and we sat out in the glorious spring sunshine listening to cows mooing and chickens clucking. The grown-ups chatted while drinking domestic beer, kids gathered eggs from the coop and an occasional pickup truck rambled down the road. The potato salad, as well as all the rest of us, felt very much at home.

Potato salad nibblers, Vermont Style

 

French Potato Salad

I always take it as a good sign when I make something and people ask for the recipe (this is for you, Rachel). I also think a dish must be a winner if the whole family swoops in before I’m  even done mixing it together and starts nibbling. This delicious recipe for potato salad is adapted from the essential All New All Purpose Joy of Cooking and to many people’s relief, has no mayonnaise. It is dressed with a simple vinaigrette and feels perfectly at home in a French or American kitchen.

 Serves 6-8

 2 pounds red or other waxy potatoes (prepared as follows):

Bring potatoes to a boil in a large pot with enough salted water to cover them. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until they are tender when pierced with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain, cool slightly and cut in thin slices.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

 6 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1 shallot, minced 

3 tablespoons fresh chives, finely snipped

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced

2 tablespoons capers, drained

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

 Add in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly:

 6 tablespoons olive oil

 Pour the dressing over the potatoes slices, toss gently to combine and serve warm ( I love this), at room temperature or chilled.

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The Cake

A reader recently wrote into “Fork on the Road” asking:

“Have you read The Elegance of the Hedgehog? [In it] Renee’s friend, Manuela, makes her a cake called “Gloutof.” Can you tell me what a Gloutof is? I wanted to bake one for some reading friends. Cheers to you and your fabulous blog!” – Carole

Thanks so much for your question, Carole. It’s surprising how many people are interested in making “Gloutof.” My site receives numerous hits everyday from folks looking for the answer to this same question.

Yes, I did read The Elegance of the Hedgehog and truly enjoyed it. Though I know that the bestselling novel, written by Murielle Barbary and originally published in French, isn’t to everyone’s taste, I appreciate the insight it offers into the Parisian mindset (somewhat fatalistic, don’t you think?). And the characters, both young and old, are memorable. So are Manuela’s cakes.

The Book

As for a “Gloutof,” I did some research and have concluded that in  going from French to English, something was “lost in translation.” I believe the cake that Renee raved about is actually called a “Kugelhopf” and  its origins can be traced to Alsace where so many yummy baked goods have been created (it even has it’s own special turban-shaped pan). I’d love to visit this region at Christmas time as I’ve heard that the holiday markets and confections are spectacular.

There is a recipe for traditional, yeasted “Kugelhopf” in Dorie Greenspan’s book Baking; From My Home to Yours (this book is a treasure – I have a copy of it in each of my kitchens). From what I’ve read, it’s more like a brioche than a cake, light, golden, soft and bready. But, there’s a price to pay for something so special: the recipe in Greenspan’s book takes a minimum of seven hours to complete. But never fear! I found a recipe for a quick and easy Kugelhopf that uses 3 tablespoons of baking powder instead of yeast and is done in under an hour.

This “Quick Kugelhopf” (recipe below) is fresh tasting, Springy and delicious, though a little more like a coffee cake than a brioche. But with this kind of a shortcut, now you can finish your book and also have time to make that gorgeous cake for book group! Thanks again for your question, Carole and thank you Manuela for inspiring so much interest in a little known cake.

The Cleanup

Quick Kugelhopf

This recipe was originally published in Quick Breads: 63 Recipes for Bakers in a Hurry by Beatrice Ojakangas. The book is even a little smaller than a loaf of quick bread itself and fits easily on any baker’s bookshelf.

Makes one 10-inch tube cake.

Ingredients:

1 cup (2 sticks) butter

1 cup granulated sugar

5 eggs

3 ½ cups all-purpose flour

3 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

1 cup golden raisins

1 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Powdered Sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 10-inch fancy Bundt/tube pan.

In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs and beat until light. In another bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add this mixture and the milk to the creamed mixture to make a smooth batter. Add the raisins, lemon rind, and vanilla. Turn it into the prepared pan. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, then invert onto a rack. Dust with powdered sugar.

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